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The Second Generation of Tsukemen

Yamagishi invented Tokusei-Mori Soba at the Higashi Ikebukuro Taishoken in 1955, and Tsukemen Daiou popularized the term “tsukemen” in 1973. But after that point, only the most devoted fans ate tsukemen. Prior to 2000, most shops offered Tsukemen as a limited summer menu while soon after it would become an established year-round item. Apprentices from the Higashi Ikebukuro Taishoken began to go out on their own, the number of stores linked to Taishoken increased, and shops like Benten and Dōtonbori flourished. Then in 2000, Ganja in Kawagoe created a new genre of Tsukemen with “extra thick noodles x custom fish powder x thick dipping soup.” This had a big impact on the future of tsukemen, eventually influencing heavyweights such as Rokurinsha, Tetsu, and Tomita. Ganja was also the first to use fish powder (gyofun) based on an original blend of dried mackerel. It isn’t just stirred into the dipping sauce but rather incorporated in a large amount as an ingredient.

Source: Shin-Yokohama Raumen Museum
Translation: Daniel Morales
Tsukemen NYC 70 Kenmare St New York, NY 10012 USA
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